Saint Germain
Situated on the left bank, this district is very popular and offers visitors that little bit extra: Saint-Germain-des-Prés was the centre of the capital’s intellectual and artistic life. It has since lost its legendary spirit, but continues to be a reference in the worlds of literature, journalism and politics. Today, Saint-Germain is the place for fashion and interior design stores, publishers and cult literary cafes and it has that little touch of Parisian snobbery… which makes it a must.
Philosophers and jazz
In the beginning, there was Saint-Germain Abbey, founded among the fields in the 8th century, it later became a prison, but, today, still preserves its beautiful church. Until the 17th century, this religious centre was a focal point for writers and actors on whom the district founded its identity.
However, Saint-Germain’s Golden Age was the 20th century when politics, philosophy and the arts took over three Parisian cafes which, today, have entered the annals of history: the Deux Magots, the Café de Flore and the Brasserie Lipp. A hive of activity during the Occupation, the district generated a huge amount of energy after the War: jazz, be-bop and Léo Ferré’s songs rang out in the cellars and the great intellectuals of the time used to meet there to defend their ideas. Among some of the most famous figures of Saint-Germain were Sartre, Simone de Beauvoir, Camus and Prévert.
Today, the district has been tamed and won over by the fever of consumerism, but Saint-Germain is a district which is still sure of its reputation. It is true that bookshops have given way to fashion boutiques, but many publishers can still be found in some of the old buildings.
From Saint-Germain Church to Odéon
Parisian society and tourists enjoy being seen at Les Deux Magots and Flore, but it is, nevertheless, in the area around Saint-Germain Church that the atmosphere of a peaceful village is to be found. The delightful Place Furstemberg, with its trees and lights, adds its own personal touch to the setting. To the north of the church, an atmosphere of confident luxury can be seen in Rue Jacob and Rue Visconti, which lead to the Carré des Antiquaires further east,. Peace reigns around the Institut de France, a little known architectural gem which, in particular, is home to the famous Acdémie Française.
Some narrow streets (Nevers, Dauphine) are medieval in style and gradually fill with art galleries, cafes and restaurants as you approach Carrefour de Buci. With its market, Rue de Buci attracts city dwellers looking for a provincial atmosphere, although it is slightly overdone. More authentic, the Carrefour de l’Odéon is a meeting place for Parisians, lying at a crossroads between the bars and cinemas.
The neighbourhood of Saint-Sulpice
Saint-Sulpice Church strikes visitors not so much by its size as by the finesse of its architecture. Revealed to the world in the best-seller “The Da Vinci Code”, Saint-Sulpice watches over the almost entirely pedestrianised small streets of Rue Guisarde, Rue Princesse and Rue Canettes. A succession of fashion shops and luxury jewellery and accessory stores have turned these streets into a centre for fashionable Parisian shoppers, which extends towards Rue du Four in the 7th arrondissement. At night time, this small part of Saint-Germain is the meeting place for night owls who flutter from the bars to the pubs, with the trendiest among them gravitating towards Castel and its cellars…